The Cycle Path
Cycle Log
Day 12 - Wednesday 30th June 2004
Linlithgow to Tormaukin Inn
Said fond goodbyes to the Best family (Fiona, Nigel, Sam & Laura) who had been most generous hosts in Linlithgow - although in an act of sheer bravado Nigel offered to cycle across the Forth Bridge with me. It started to rain as soon as we reached the Union Canal towpath and proceeded to pour, turning the black shale path into a clooty pudding mix. Past a few more impressive 'Bings' near Phillipstoun, the rain turned to 'dreicht', a form of misty rain - although just as wet. The route through Hopetoun House deer park was only accessible by cyclists and pedestrians but led right in front of the 'big hoose' and down the avenue to the seashore. Here the view included both bridges with miniature trains and vehicles crossing over the firth. Nostrils stretched to imbibe the sudden smell of seaweeds like taking a fourth nose at an Islay malt. And here was the Forth...with well kept, cobbly, South Queensferry providing great views of the underbelly of that iron dragon of a rail bridge...complete with painters. Coincidental with our arrival on the bridge was a pool of blue sky, sunshine and the arrival of the Amsterdam car ferry into Rosyth. It had FAST written on it...we slowed down to take photos through the bounce and recoil of the decking induced by passing heavy lorries. An exciting if noisy ride. Nigel left to cycle home and missed the roadside raspberries, ripe in the rain that decended on Inverkeithing. The NCN signage disappeared in Dunfermline leaving me in a highway hell hole; relieved by a soggy but local 'steak bridie' that was good for warming the hands as well as filling my stomach. Old Dunfermaline's ruined red palaces might have been more attractive in a dryer version but my mission was to find the west Fife Cycleway towards Clackmannan. Once found it was superbly surfaced and well signed but all too short a run for me as left for the steeper Ochils and Glen Devon. The neat and rustic hostel is clean and green and a spanner's throw from the Tormaukin Inn, an old drovers pub serving a beer from Dollar called 'Bitter and Twisted' and the local malt from Glenturret distillery...both of which smooth and honeyed. On to the Fish Ladder of Pitlochry in the morning.
