The Cycle Path
Cycle Log
Day 6 - Thursday 24th June 2004
Manchester to Slaidburn
The howling storms and city trams had woken me early at Potato Wharf but Colin was waiting at 8 am in the lashing rain to cycle up the Irwell. It was like a monsoon and thankfully Colin knew all the back streets of Salford and we emerged by the riverside path just in time to run over some glass next to Salford University. However, now getting quite swift at repairs and soon on our way as the ferocity of the storm increased. The 'trail' was in dreadful condition and finally gave up on it and headed onto the cycleway of the A56 to Bury and the East Lancashire Steam Railway for a steam hauled jaunt and a well deserved respite from the rain to Irwell Valley Halt. Hugely helpful staff and vast amounts of interesting railwayana to boot but we had to get back to the monsoon through the skirls of smoke from our little saddle tank engine. It was an interesting uphill journey and even going down steep hills we needed to pedal hard against the wind to make forward motion. Wet air mingled with the smells of pie factories and chip shops as we splashed on to Accrington pausing for a photo beneath a sign to Accrington Stanley FC. Surrounded by Pennine moorland now and the stone terrace houses clustering round the roadside and clinging to the hillsides. Lots of people here all bent into the wind and rain but at least out in it. Made good time despite the elements to Whalley where saints be praised some stunning cycle paths started appearing...whole roads' worth wiggling under the lee of Pendle Hill and bearing the NCN signage. Quickened our pace towards Clitheroe and Downham, now very much beneath the brooding witchy bulk of Pendle Hill but flatter and happier out of the wind. Found some lovely sculptural work at Worston a sheep and a lamb in their own little meadow by the roadside. Downham Hall was reached via a well cared for Quiet Lane wiggling amidst tree lined fields and stone buildings. Stopped to admire the village toilets constructed out of an old calf shed and still containing the original stone stalls. Olivia Assheton and Amanda Anderson (who makes a nice cup of coffee) met us at the door of the Estate Office and showed us... the three foot long dragon hanging from the ceiling made by the local village blacksmith! Off to the Assheton Arms for a great lunch although the pub has been renamed the Signalman's Arms for the BBC and has an MDF village war memorial as well as several odd 1950's shops and post office mock ups in view. The village is an architectuarl gem and the Clitheroe Estate is doing a fantastic job of managing all the many interests inherent in a place as beautiful as this. Bade farewll to Colin, Olivia and Amanda and set off for Slaidburn now considerably drier, well fed and cheered by great hospitality in a unique place. Tonight I meet Alan Fisher and REN to have dinner and talks in the 'Hark to Bounty Inn'.
... It was a wrench to leave Downham Hall but the Forest of Bowland was calling! Having crossed the Ribble it was a long grind uphill through gritty sounding places like Grindleton but in truth the evidence of orchids by the wayside betrayed a tongue of limestone between the harder rocks of the 'Forest' uplands. Slaidburn is a tight, stone built village centred around the pub the 'Hark to Bounty' (named improbably after a barking dog … called 'Bounty') and the shop and the very impressive Youth Hostel in the King's House. Only 3 hostellers in residence and our hosts were fellow cyclists so good to talk tales of wild Scotland, chanterelles in the woods and the magnificence of the NW coast. Joined for dinner by Adam Fisher and Karen Laxton who had trekked over from Todmorden with a feast of Lancashire produce - black mushy peas, a Lancashire meat pudding, scones and bread rolls made from wind-milled flour, local firm ham and cheese. Excellent, so support Karen's endeavours 'Rural Recipes' on karenlaxt[at]hotmail.com. Meanwhile, back in the TV lounge England were losing on penalties to Portugal and the flag of St George crumpled: Dragons 1, George 0. [St George is the Patron Saint of Portugal too].
